Road Plates + Grit

Epoxy coating and grit for resurfacing road plates

Property Repair Systems - 01626 331351 - speak to real people about road plates

 

 

 
       

Epoxy Seal Coating - for steel road plates, to bond grit to the surface for skid resistance

Summary - how to coat a steel road plate

1. Pressure Wash and epoxy solvent clean - surfaces should be mud, dust and grease free

2. Warm if possible in the Winter - using a dry source of heat (not bottled gas)

3. Apply resin - Epoxy Seal Coat Clear - 1 mm thick - about 1 litre per square metre - use a medium pile roller, brush or squeegee

4. Apply grit - Grit Grade Mixed 1 - 3mm - at 2.5kgs per square metre.

Click here to buy a Road Plate gritting Kit

Typical road plate - 8' x 4' - 1.83m x 1.22m = 2.23 square metres, allow 2.5 litres of resin and 6kgs of mixed grit.


How much resin do I need to re-grit a steel road plate

Epoxy Seal Coat is supplied in the Road Plate Kits at 2.5 litres per 8' x 4' plate, (2.23 square metres), but it can be purchased separately in 1 litre, 2.5 litre and 5 litre packs.

Allow up to 1 litre per square metre (max. 1mm of resin thickness) for mixed Grit size 1 - 3mm

Accessories: Epoxy Cleaner, 250cc, rubber squeegee

Click here to buy a Road Plate gritting Kit

Throw grit up into the air to achieve an even coating all over the road plate

Re-gritting a steel Road Plate - throw the grit upwards in handfuls


How to re-coat friction surfaces on Road Plates
1. Strip any existing loose grit with a wire brush or angle grinder, grit blast or needle gun.

3. Strip the bare surface or bald spots to clean bare metal.

4. Clean with our Epoxy Cleaner, 250cc to ensure that no oil or grease remains in the metal.

5. Regrind if necessary to eliminate any solvent cleaner smear film. Wipe over with a clean White Cloth.

6. Wipe thoroughly again with the White Cloth - if any dark marks appear on the White Cloth repeat steps 4 - 6 until the cloth remains perfectly white - this is the secret of success - any dirt left on, no matter how little, with reduce the resin bond and lead to bald patches, where the resin has fallen off.

6. Lay clean cardboard or plastic sheeting around the edges of the plate to catch aggregate (grit) that falls off during coating, for re-use.

7. In the Winter, or for cold conditions, heat the metal with dry heat - use electrical heaters with fans. Avoid gas heating (particularly Propane), because of the water produced, which can cause condensation on the steel and loss of adhesion. Maintain background heat until the resin is completely hard. This may take up to 2 days during cold weather. Lack of heat may also allow condensation to form on the resin and the aggregate (grit) may then fail to bond properly.

8. Apply Epoxy Seal Coat Clear with a smooth plastic spreader, roller, squeegee or brush, to a depth of 1mm.

9. Apply clean, dust free Aggregate (grit) to the adhesive so that cover is complete, with some excess. Pat the aggregate (grit) into the resin very firmly with a clean wooden or metal object (plastering float, batten, cricket bat), or use a piece of clean hard plastic material. It is not necessary to apply another coat of resin, as long as the first coat is thick enough and the aggregate (grit) is fully bedded in.

10. Leave to cure for at least 24 hours, subject to temperatures being above 15 degrees C at all times. Maintain the heating for the whole period.

Accessories: Epoxy Cleaner, 250cc

Click here to buy a Road Plate gritting Kit


IMPORTANT NOTES - applying resin to Steel Road Plates

  • In cold weather you must keep the metal surfaces above 5 degrees C. Below 5 degrees the resin curing will slow and curing will be delayed.

  • On cold, damp days condensation on the surfaces or on the resin can reduce resin and grit adhesion, so screen off the area to prevent draughts and warm up with heaters overnight.

  • In Winter adjust the resin temperature by placing the pots of resin in warm water.

  • For cleaning, use our Epoxy Cleaner, 250cc, cellulose thinners, epoxy thinners, or trichlorethylene.

  • To save grit lay the cleaned steel plate onto a plastic sheet

  • The plate MUST NOT BE USED until the coating is really hard. Make a test piece (of metal or wood) when the resin coating is complete. Coat the test piece with resin, without grit, and leave next to the gritted area. Test by first thumb pressure and then with a screwdriver before using the roller. When hard, the coating still continues to gain strength over several days.

Click for Resins and Grits in our Shop


TROUBLESHOOTING STEEL ROAD PLATE RE-GRIT
  1. Resin comes off the metal - not clean enough, too cold when coated, condensation on the metal when coated, resin not fully cured.

  2. Grit comes off the resin - condensation on the resin when gritted, grit too dusty, wet grit, grit not tamped into the resin when applied, resin not fully cured.

  3. Resin remains sticky - not mixed fully, too cold (resin stops curing at 5C), too damp, condensation on resin before or after gritting due to low temperature, or through using bottled gas heating.

Grits for metals - relining road plates, potato peelers, recoating brake rollers, blasting and refinishing

Prime quality fused Alumac produced from stringently controlled raw materials form the most durable grit surfaces for Brake Rollers.

Al203 content 94 -99%.

Packed in plastic tubs.

Grade 12, 2mm - 3mm, or Grade 16, 1mm - 2mm, or Mixed Grade 1mm - 3mm.

Grit Required per square metre, average:

Allow 2.5kgs per square metre

Typical Grit Sizes used:

Potato Peelers - 24 Grit

Class 4 Rollers - 12 or 16 Grit

Class 5 Rollers - 12 or 16 Grit

Class 7 Rollers - Mixed Grit 1 - 3mm natural aggregates

Steel Road Plates - Mixed Grit 1 - 3mm natural aggregates

Tamp the grit well into the resin surfaces.

Grit to excess and collect for re-use. When dry brush off excess grit.

Call us on 01626 331351 for calculation of your Road Plate, Potato Peeler or Brake Roller cleaning and finishing needs.

Discuss the Grades of Grit available to ensure satisfaction.

Click here to buy a Road Plate gritting Kit


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Site written by: David Moore

David Moore, B.A. (Hons.), C.T.I.S., C.R.D.S. Technical Author

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